This fly is similar to the Simple Caddis Larva. The main difference besides size, between this fly and the Simple Caddis Larva, is that dubbing is used for a thorax. This fly could be tied with peacock herl also. Our objective in this lesson is to teach the dubbing process.



Hook-Lightening Strike NW3 size 14 to 24
Body-White floss
Rib-Small copper wire
Thorax-Rabbit dubbing or Synthetic dubbing
Thread-Black 8-0
Throat-Use 5 or 6 fibers from soft hackle feather.

Fly Tying

Attach the tying thread to the hook and wind toward the bend of the hook. Stop about two eye widths from the eye. This is the tie in point. Attach the wire rib using the soft loop technique. Wrap to a point opposite the barb of the hook and then back to the tie in point. Attach a 4 inch piece of white floss at the tie in point and wrap back to a point opposite the barb and then back to the tie in point. Completely cover the floss with the tying thread as you wind back to the tie in point. In the water the floss will become semitransparent and the thread base will show through giving the fly a subtle gray color. Next, wind the ribbing forward in open even turns to the tie in point and tie off. Cut off the excess ribbing. Wind the floss forward covering the shank of the hook, tying thread, and the rib. There should be no open spaces between the wraps. Floss is a multi-stranded material. It will have a tendency to separate as you wind it forward. To prevent splaying of the strands, hold the floss close to the fly. A few twists of the floss may also help, but don’t twist the floss too tight or it will not become transparent when wet. Tie off the floss at the tie in point and trim the excess.

The next step is optional. We are going to add hackle fibers to form a throat. If you have a rotary vice turn the fly upside down. If you do not have rotary vise, remove the fly from the vise and temporarily mount the fly upside down. Attach several fibers of hackle at the tie in point using a soft loop technique. As you attach the fibers use fairly loose wraps, this allows you to position the fibers better. If the fibers are too long, you can pull on the butt ends and shorten them. The tips of the fibers should extend to the tip of the hook. Once the fibers are correctly positioned and the right length, trim the butts and apply firm wraps to hold them in place. Turn the fly right side up. The thorax of this fly consists of dubbing. Dubbing refers to the material applied to the thread as well as the process of winding the dubbed thread around the hook. For this pattern use a soft hair like muskrat or rabbit. Commercial packages of rabbit dubbing are available and are easy to use. The biggest mistake most beginning fly tiers make is using too much dubbing. When you think you have the right amount, divide it again. You can always add more. Hold the thread taunt, place a small amount of dubbing against the thread. Use your thumb and forefinger and spin the fur onto the thread. Repeat until the dubbing forms a yarn of fur. Always spin in the same direction. If you have trouble getting the dubbing to adhere to the thread, try using a smaller amount of dubbing. You may also moisten your fingertips with saliva. Dubbing wax can also be added to the tying thread. When the dubbing is firmly wound around the tying thread, slide the yarn to the hook and make several turns to complete the thorax. Complete the fly with a small thread head and finish with two half hitches.